My High Sierra Trail Story by Liz Thomas

Liz Thomas is a 2023 FarOut Scout

A hiker on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

The High Sierra Trail in the Sierra Nevada mountains of California may not have the fanbase of the nearby John Muir Trail, but it has quickly become one of my favorite hikes. At 61 miles (49 miles High Sierra Trail + 12 miles John Muir Trail to the top of Mount Whitney), thru-hiking the HST is shorter than the JMT, and it has less elevation gain too. In fact, the route follows the easiest and lowest route across the Great Western Divide from Sequoia National Park to the top of Mt. Whitney. The HST delivers a lot of reward in scenery for less effort than most Sierra trails. It’s perfect for hikers who want a long trail that doesn’t require taking weeks of work off at a time. 

 

Last summer, I thru-hiked the HST twice and wrote about my experience, comparing it to the times I’ve thru-hiked the JMT (known as the Nüümü Poyo Trail). Here’s the quick tips I wish I’d known before my hike that can help anyone considering the HST.

A view of mountains, rocks, and trees on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas
A view of Hamilton Lake on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

Scenery: What surprised me the most about the HST was the sheer variety of landscapes. The HST has giant sequoia forests, alpine lakes, hot springs, thousand-foot waterfalls, trails literally tunneled out of a cliffside, and rare twisted foxtail bristlecone pines – plus the top of Mt. Whitney (Tumanguya in the local Paiute language). I was impressed by all I was able to see and experience on the HST. It felt like a hits and highlights walk of the Sierra, all packed into a 60-mile trail.

A view of trees and rocks on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas
A view of mountains and clouds on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

Altitude acclimation: One thing that’s awesome about the HST is that the major climb of the trail, Kaweah Gap, is only 10,689 feet—a lot less intimidating than some of the 12,000-13,000 foot passes on the John Muir Trail. This gives hikers a little more time to get used to altitude. However, the HST shares the last 12 miles with the JMT to the summit of Mt. Whitney (14,505 feet). Just as it is for JMT hikers, those last miles can be a challenge because of the altitude. Take it slowly and consider spending a night at Crabtree Meadow (10,300 feet) or Guitar Lake (11,500 feet). Know the signs of altitude sickness and monitor your body!

 

Bring your umbrella: I was surprised by how warm the HST felt despite being at altitude. For many miles, it’s at a lower elevation than the JMT. It has long sections exposed to the sun, so bring an umbrella for shade. Prepare for warm temperatures with sun exposure. But don’t forget that there are cold nights—especially if you plan to summit Mt. Whitney by moonlight.

A view of mountains and clouds in the sun on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas
A view of a pink sunset over the mountains on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

The deal with the hot spring: Kern Hot Springs is a highlight of the trail that is right on the HST. It’s nestled in a forest of cedars next to the Kern River with waterfalls tumbling off cliffs nearby. It’s remote–about 30 miles into the hike–and has a lot of elevation gain to get there, so this isn’t the kind of place where people haul party equipment. It is truly tranquil and serene. Keep it that way by leaving it better than you found it. The hottest pool is tiny–smaller than a 2-person tent. Practice good hot spring etiquette by sharing the space, skipping soaps and laundry, and being friendly to other users. Don’t drain the tub (unless you clean it and fill it up again).

Liz Thomas holding the Mt Whitney Summit sign on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas
A view of Kern Hot Springs on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

Permits:

Get them at recreation.gov as close to exactly 6 months before your start date as you can. Plan your itinerary and intended campsites well before the day you apply for the permit. You’re not required to stay in designated campsites, but your permit will require you to state areas near where you may end up camping. Check out the National Park Service website for High Sierra Trail permits for more info.

A hiker posing next to the western terminus sign of the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas
A hiker smiling in front of a giant sequoia tree
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

Car Shuttles and getting between trailheads:

Most backpackers hike the HST as a one-way thru-hike, starting in Sequoia National Park, summit Mt. Whitney, and descend to Whitney Portal. From there (or from the nearby town of Lone Pine, CA) you’ll need to get back to your car on the other side of the mountain range—nearly 6 hours away. Public transit between the termini isn’t quite as easy as on the JMT. You can read about all the transit options here. Ultimately, most hikers arrange ahead of time to take the shuttle service. If you’re hiking with a group, splitting the fee is fairly reasonable.

 

If you’ve been thinking about the JMT and want to try something shorter first, the HST is a great alternative. In fact, I don’t think it’s fair to call it a JMT alternative. That discounts its standing as a world-class trail on its own merits. The HST is a fun and social trail and a great introduction to backpacking the Sierra. It is also a way to revisit the Sierra through a different landscape.

A view of mountains and rocks on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas
A bridge on the High Sierra Trail
Photo provided by Liz Thomas

Liz Thomas is a FarOut ambassador and author of Long Trails: Mastering the Art of the Thru-Hike, which won the National Book Award for Best Instructional Book. She’s co-founder of Treeline Review and wrote its High Sierra Trail Backpacking guide, a free resource for planning a hike of the HST.

Related Trail Guide

Embark on an iconic adventure along the High Sierra Trail in Sequoia National Park, California, as it traverses the heart of the Sierra Nevada from west to east. Starting at Crescent Meadow, the trail takes you through diverse landscapes, ascending the canyon of the Middle Fork of the Kaweah River, crossing the Great Western Divide, and navigating the Kern River Canyon. After 49 miles, join the iconic John Muir Trail for an additional 12 miles to reach the summit of Mount Whitney. With breathtaking views, diverse terrain, and a journey through a variety of ecosystems, the High Sierra Trail promises an unforgettable experience for avid hikers.